And then there’s the food!

Ahhh…the food.  When I travel somewhere, one of my first questions is about the food.  When I traveled to Ireland several years ago, I was certain the food was going to be bland; mostly boiled potatoes and meat. I was wrong about that, and I was equally surprised about the food in Tanzania.

On Kilimanjaro you’ll travel with a cook and wait staff.  You’ll have chef prepared meals and snacks. Really, it’s more food than you can eat, and it’s all delicious.  We cater to the clients dietary needs and wants, and I’m certain you’ll find it to your liking.  One of my favorite items is the soups.  I love soup anyway, and the soups are always freshly prepared and tasty.  You’ll generally take your meals in the dining tent, which can be one of the best times of day.  Sitting with your fellow trekkers sharing your experiences, getting to know those you don’t know.  It’s a very special time on the mountain.

On safari if you’re staying in a tented camp, a cook and wait staff will also travel with you. If you opt for staying at a lodge, there will be full dining service, and either way, when you go out for your daily wildlife viewing, you’ll be sent with a box lunch to enjoy.

If you’re like me and you want to explore local culture, by all means ask your guides about the local food.  It’s delicious as well!  Their diet is not that different than our western diet; lots of fruits and vegetables.  Meat is mostly eaten in stews, accompanied by their version of polenta, which they call “ugali”  It’s made with very fine cornmeal, and served along with a meat and vegetable dish, as the starch for the meal.  Tanzanians absolutely have to have ugali a few times per week, and the guides and porters will be eating it on Kilimanjaro.  Definitely check it out! 

Here are a few pictures of some local food and markets.  Bon Appetit! Or as they say in Swahili, Karibu Chakula!

 

Pole, pole

Pole, pole….slowly, slowly.  The guides and porters on Kilimanjaro say it frequently to their clients.  Going pole, pole greatly increases your chances of getting to Uhuru Peak.

So whether you’re at 10,000 feet or 19,000 feet, chances are you’re going to go pole, pole.  And if you don’t, if you’re a young, brash man who is in terrific shape and you’re certain you can go much faster, chances are you’re going to find yourself with a debilitating headache, unable to eat or breathe.  So listen to those who have been up their hundreds of times.  They know.

Then on the way down, all that gets tossed aside.  You’re wanting to go slowly, pole, pole, and they are racing past you with your supplies on their heads, running and sliding down that mountain. Going down is much harder than going up. You want to step carefully, you’re afraid you’ll fall, so you take your time, and wow, your knees and your thighs begin to scream.  You start to feel blisters on your toes. And by “you”, I mean “me”.

So next time I’m coming down that mountain I’m going to do what they do; reckless abandon, letting gravity take me down.  My knees will thank me.

 

 

Volcanos, Flamingos and Maasai, Oh My!

In the Rift Valley of northern Tanzania you’ll find Ol Doinyo Lengai, an active volcano, who’s name comes from the Maasai language (their language is called Maa), and means “Mountain of God”.

This area is less well known than places like the Serengeti or Ngorongoro Crater, but definitely worth the time if you can include it.

There are both campgrounds and luxury tented camps in the area, and no matter which way you go, you won’t be disappointed.  Campgrounds can be appealing if you want to truly embrace the gentle flow of the river and the African sky.  You’ll have a chef with you, so although you’ll feel completely alone, you’ll be fed sumptuous meals and snacks.   The luxury tented camps offer a full dining experience with a bit more of the comforts of home.

The Maasai tribe have lived in the region for centuries, and make wonderful hosts.  A tour of a local boma is easily arranged.  There are Maasai all over eastern Africa, but one of the most authentic experiences can be found in this part of the continent.  The Maasai women of the region make and sell beaded jewelry; they are persistent, but it’s so inexpensive (about $4 for a bracelet) that you can buy many pieces for yourself, or to bring home as gifts.

Lengai is always in view.  You can hike to the top if you’d like; it’s a bit challenging but the view of the crater and the surrounding area when you get up there is extraordinary.

The other attraction, and the one most people come to see, is Lake Natron.  It’s been reputed to turn animals to stone.  The alkaline water has a pH as high as 10.5 and comes from sodium carbonate and other minerals that flow into the lake from the surrounding hills.  Sodium carbonate was once used in Egyptian mummification, so it does preserve any animal that’s unlucky enough to die in the waters.  The high alkaline water also attracts millions of lesser flamingos (as well as great white pelicans and lots of other species), so it’s one of the best places in the world for birding.

If you go, bring your camera, because just like the rest of Tanzania, no matter where you turn, there’s a memorable shot just waiting to be captured.

Messages from Kilimanjaro

Even though I’ve gotten lots and lots of texts messages, e-mails and phone calls from the mountain, it never ceases to amaze me that it’s possible.

When you’re on the mountain, it seems so remote.  You’ll cover 4 distinct climates zones on your trek.  You’ll either start or end in the Rainforest.  You’ll then go through the Heather/Moorland Zone, the Alpine Desert, and onto the Arctic Zone.  White necked ravens and other birds are plentiful, but other than the little camp mice you occasionally see, there isn’t much wildlife as you climb higher either.

It’s very quiet, and peaceful.  The sky is magical.  I remember one night when I got up to go to the bathroom, and just stopped and stared and the sky.  I couldn’t get enough of it.

So don’t worry, you’ll be able to communicate with your loved ones on the mountain.  Twitter, Facebook, Instagram.  Your loved ones can keep up with you.

But by all means, enjoy the experience.  Immerse yourself in it.  If you’re lucky, you’ll be changed by it.  I was.

Ngorongoro Crater – a veritable bowl of wildlife

Ngorongoro Crater conservation area in Tanzania has been reported to have the highest concentration of wildlife anywhere in the world, which makes it a must-see on any visit to Tanzania.

The crater was formed when a volcano exploded and collapsed on itself 2-3 million years ago.  It’s 610 meters (2000 feet) deep and the floor covers 260 square kilometers (100 square miles).

The view from the top is exquisite, and then once you’re down in the crater the wildlife viewing is exceptional.

The first views we got were of a secretary bird, and then we came upon a small pride of lions literally sleeping by the side of the road.  There are zebras, hyenas, wildebeest, elephants, flamingos, just about everything but giraffes, because they can’t make the climb down.

I’ve attached a photo that captures the view from the top.

Pangani, one of the surprises of Tanzania

Pangani is a sleepy town on the coast of Tanzania. We’d been to Zanzibar twice and thought we’d check out this beach area. What a wonderful surprise!
If you’re looking for the perfect end to either a safari or a Kilimanjaro climb, definitely consider Pangani just as you would Zanzibar. It’s more of a sleepy beach area than Zanzibar is, and just as beautiful.

The Schiphol Airport Adventure

One of the good things about travel from the US to Tanzania is the Amsterdam airport, Schiphol.

There’s no getting around that it takes a long time to get to TZ.  But I’ve found that the stop in Amsterdam completely changes how I feel about the trip.

I have developed quite a ritual.  When I get on the plane I put on my slippers, wipe down the tray table, remote and seat arms with disinfectant.  Planes are full of germs, and I don’t want anything to ruin my trip.  I put my little airplane pillow behind my back, and use my neck pillow. I always wear a jacket or sweatshirt and my most comfortable pants.  I have a pashmina with me, and will use that and the airline blanket if I get cold.  I bring my own headphones, and always bring earplugs and eye shades, too.

I get comfortable, and during the meal I’ll watch a movie.  Then by the time the movie ends, I’m ready for sleep.

I sleep for a few hours, then either watch another movie, or read, and by then it seems we’re arriving at Schiphol.

We always arrive in Amsterdam around 8-9am.  I try to have at least a 2 hour layover, just in case there is any delay.

Schiphol is great.  There’s so much to see and do, so if you’re okay having a longer delay, there are plenty of things to occupy your time.  I mean, they have a museum!  Great eateries, shops, even showers.  I absolutely always freshen up.  Change clothes, wash my face and brush my teeth.  So when I get on the plane to TZ, it’s like a new trip.  I’ve been on those long Asian flights and even though it takes almost as long to get to TZ I much prefer being able to get off the plane in Amsterdam, walk around, and just get my bearings.

On that last leg of my adventure,  I get on the plane, go thru my ritual again, eat, sleep, read, and in no time I’m landing at Kilimanjaro Airport!

So yes, it’s a long trip, but it’s worth it!